Useful Tips

Basic rules for breeding crickets at home


Meet the exotic pet cricket

Do you think that the list of exotic pets suitable for home maintenance is limited to snails, spiders, lizards? Well, you are mistaken. Today it is becoming popular to keep in a house in a small wicker cage or container ... cricket. And in China there is even a tradition (from the 12th century) to organize battles of these creatures. True, now cricket fights are a rarity, and it is unlikely that a simple tourist will be able to see them, but he will be able to purchase such a pet for 25 cents along with a wicker cage at a local bazaar. These creatures appear in domestic pet stores. And if you are interested in cricket, as a potential contender for a place in your house and heart, or maybe you consider it as pasture for another exotic pet, it will be useful for you to find out about the features of its maintenance at home.

Features of the content of crickets

Cricket container design option

If you decide to have such an original and noisy pet in your house (crickets make characteristic sounds, so just ask yourself if you are ready for this), take care of acquiring a fairly spacious container. Its size will depend on the number of pets and on how comfortable conditions you are going to create for them. You can keep a whole thousand crickets in a container of 450 by 425 and 500 centimeters, or several. The difference will be in the level of comfort.

If the walls of the container are high - you can not cover it, however, in order to avoid all sorts of troubles associated with finding a cricket under the bed or in the bathroom, it is better to take care of a special mesh cover.

The walls of the container should be smooth - it can be glass or plastic. This is necessary in order to prevent the pet from running vertically. Do not forget that crickets move very well and quickly on smooth vertical surfaces.

If you are going to keep the cricket in a wooden box, then it is better to glue its walls from the inside with thin glass so that the cricket is not so easy to climb up on them.
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Even if you have taken care of a spacious container, do not forget about the special house. To do this, you can use a cardboard box under the eggs. Place it vertically, laying small pieces of cardboard between the sides. This will not allow the egg cells to stick together and there will be good ventilation in the house. Crickets like to hide in such houses.
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Substrate selection

At the bottom of the container you will need to pour ... not a substrate, but dry food. It can be oatmeal, dry baby food, gammarus. Some pour dry food for cats or dogs. True, there is much debate about the usefulness of the latter, whether it is worth doing so. So, it's up to you to decide. You will need to put a feeder on top of the feed layer. Its role can be played by a board or plywood - on it you will lay out a portion of wet food daily - carrot salad with apple, lettuce, burdock, dandelions.

By the way, the appearance of a cricket depends on its diet. The more diverse his diet is, the more beautiful the cricket looks.
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Cricket temperature

House of Egg Trays

Crickets are thermophilic creatures and keeping them in a container where the temperature is below +26 degrees is not recommended. If the temperature column of the thermometer shows the numbers below, take care of artificial heating of the air using a spot heating lamp.

In addition, additional ultraviolet light will contribute to the synthesis of vitamin D3 in crickets, which is also good for them.
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Do crickets need water

Separately, crickets do not need to give water. After all, they get the moisture they need from wet food. But if there is real heat on the street or indoors, the temperature is above +30 degrees, and you worry about the health of your cricket, then you can slightly moisten the walls of the container from the spray bottle. From drops on the walls, crickets can get drunk and quench their thirst. If you still decide to place a drinking bowl with water in the pet’s container, be sure to put a piece of foam rubber or a gauze napkin next to it, which could absorb moisture if the water spills.
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How often to clean a cricket container

In order to prevent bacteria and germs from multiplying in the container, it is recommended that you clean your pet’s house at least 1-2 times a week. At this time, he should be put in a temporary house. But if you notice that his abdomen is swollen, and an unpleasant smell comes from the container itself, you should not be limited to one cleaning. Your pet could become infected with microsporidia and you will need to sanitize its home.

Unsanitary conditions for crickets contribute to the development of their tick, and this can lead to the death of your unusual creation. Therefore, do not ignore the cleaning, and if you have already started a cricket - keep it not only in comfort, but also clean.
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Cricket Breeding

An original approach to the design of the cricket container

Crickets can also be bred at home - relevant for those who consider them as food. The main thing is to create correct and comfortable living conditions for them, and have a small colony where there will be males and females. There should be more females than males. For 1 male - 4-5 females. Otherwise, you will witness the crickets fighting, and they will sing very loudly. So that your neighbors are sure to ring you at the door.

A small container with a depth of 4-5 centimeters filled with a moist substrate is placed in a container for adult crickets, this time as soil, sand, peat. It can even be wet food. Female crickets when laying eggs are not very vagaries.

It is better to cover the container from above with a fine mesh with cells, so that later, when the female lays eggs, adult crickets do not eat them.

Cricket females lay eggs in portions, 2-5 pieces. In one clutch there can be from 350 to 900 eggs. So your population will increase rapidly. Depending on temperature conditions, cricket dust will appear in 1-2 weeks - babies 1-2 mm in size. For several months they will grow, molt, until they reach puberty. Then they will be ready for reproduction.
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Advantages and disadvantages of keeping crickets at home

If you are a fan of everything original, this pet is for you. True, the duration of its life cycle is not very long, even if it is properly maintained. They live no more than a few months. So, getting attached to pets is not particularly worth it. In addition, this is a fairly noisy creation, but if you want to listen to cricket songs, you can try it.

Given the volume of masonry and the frequency of reproduction, soon your population will increase significantly. But if you consider crickets as a live food (if you are not against such an approach) for other pets (spiders, lizards, frogs) - this will suit you perfectly.

Cricket Content Video

Today we talked about keeping crickets at home. We will be interested to know your opinion - can a cricket be a pet? Perhaps someone even has experience keeping these creatures at home, share it with us.

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Types of crickets and creating the necessary conditions for them

The success of breeding crickets depends on how successfully the conditions have been created and the content organized. Insects should receive enough nutrition and be in an environment close to their natural habitat. In this case, we can expect that crickets will lead an active lifestyle and increase their population. If the conditions are not suitable, then the pets can completely kill each other.

Ideally suited for home content:

  1. House crickets are the most common in captivity. They are small in size and are often bred for food. With the onset of the evening and until the morning they can make voiced trills.
  2. Banana The species is distinguished by a high breeding rate and a love of heat.
  3. Two-spotted. A dry microclimate and a relatively low air temperature are suitable for them: 23 ° C for insects will be quite enough.

A two-spot cricket is larger than a brownie: his body can reach 3 cm

The content of crickets implies attention to the characteristics of each species. But there are general recommendations that are universal in any situation.

Over time, a person involved in the breeding of crickets at home can draw conclusions and derive their own rules based on experience and observation.

First of all, you need to take care of a container for growing crickets. The role of the insectarium can be performed by any capacity made of plastic, glass and particleboard. The main thing is that its area is at least 60 × 40 cm, and its height is more than 30 cm. In this space, insects will feel comfortable.

People who know firsthand how to breed crickets at home are advised to lay boxes with cells intended for eggs on top of each other in a cage. This trick increases the usable area, and the number of pets will increase. In addition, the cells remind crickets of the hole - shelters that they dig in life in the wild. For young individuals recently born, crumpled paper is suitable. Dry fish food mixed with oatmeal, peat, sand, bran is suitable as a soil. But you can not pour it.

You need to clean the cage at least 1 time per week. Dirt and waste products of crickets inhibit reproduction and are a substrate for parasitic ticks.

To illuminate the container using incandescent lamps with a power of 25 to 40 watts. They will not only create light, but also be a source of heat. For the successful existence of crickets, a 16-hour light day is sufficient.


A microclimate suitable for crickets consists of two important indicators:

  1. The optimum temperature depends on the species. For example, a thermophilic banana cricket feels good when it is above 26 ° C, although it is preferable for it to be from 28 ° C to 37 ° C. For brownie and two-spot crickets, temperatures from 23 ° C are suitable. The higher the air temperature, the better the health of stray pets and their growth is more intense. But at the same time, they need more feed and a more frequent change of litter.
  2. Humidity should be at least 40-50%. This value is especially important for cricket eggs, which in dry soil can simply die. Therefore, the substrate with the masonry should be constantly moistened. If the humidity is too high, then insects will get ticks, and this will mean the possible death of crickets.

Once suitable conditions are created, the first tenants can be launched into the container.

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Dear friends.

From 08/25/2017 - We are pleased to announce that the Anaconda workshop has reopened its doors for you. Once again, we are ready to offer products of our own production that have been loved by many customers and tested by time: aquariums, aqua terrariums, terrariums and much more. As always, an individual approach, reasonable prices and the quality of our products are all for you and your pets.

We open for you a new service - overexposure of your pets.

Please note that from 22.02. In 2019, there are two ways to pay for a bulk order for insect feeds: in cash or by transferring to a Sat: 4276 4200 1351 4830 card.

Payment by credit card is temporarily not accepted.

Available for sale:

07/20/2019 Scheduled supply of feed insects. (available cricket brownie, two-spotted, Turkmen cockroach, zofobas)

06/30/2019 planned supply of feed insects. (available cricket brownie, two-spotted, Turkmen cockroach, zofobas, flour grains). Also in the presence of deep-frozen aqua-feed, including artemia (0.5 kg)

06/15/2019 Scheduled supply of feed insects.

06/13/2019 On sale: neons (blue, red, black), a barbie of fire, Sumatran, Odessa, glass perch, blue angelfish, bots marble and clown, ordinary anticistrus, star, hypancystrus (L340) and much more.

05/22/2019 Supply of feed rodents, deep-frozen aquarium feeds.

05/17/2019 planned delivery of feed insects, postponed to May 19 (Sunday).

05/03/2019 Scheduled supply of feed insects.

04/30/2019 On sale of Eleot's cichlazoma, neon blue, neon red, erythrosone, sumatran barbus (large), zebrafish GLO Fich (light green). Axolotli (S and M size).

From 04/26/2019 - planned supply of feed insects, for technical reasons, postponed to 05/03/2019.

For the presence of feed insects, please check at 414-90-25.

From 04/04/2019 The supply of feed insects scheduled for 04/05/2019, for technical reasons, was postponed to 04/12/2019. In the retail segment, we will try to offer several types of feed insects of our production.

From 22. 03.2019 Supply of feed insects: Brownie cricket, two-spotted, zofobas, flour raspberries, Turkmen cockroach, Madagascar cockroach, locust.

From 03/18/2019 A large supply of aquarium equipment, aqua-food of deep-freeze and dry, UV lamps for reptiles (the list of manufacturers is greatly expanded), vitamins and calcium fertilizing for animals.

delta "males and females.

Preservation of feed insects after purchase

How to keep feed insects as long as possible alive?

1. Feed insects are always sold in packaged form at our store. Quantities up to 150 pcs are packed in plastic containers, large quantities, usually in cardboard boxes of various sizes, depending on the quantity and size of the purchased feed items. In any case, it is necessary to understand and remember that this is a "transport" container designed for storage (no more than 1-2 days) and moving to the final destination of your home. Longer storage of feed insects in transport containers greatly reduces their "life potential". That is why we collect live insects in small batches, almost daily.

At home, after acquisition, any feed insects should be placed in storage tanks. Such containers can be any plastic containers of medium and large volumes (from 15 to 100 l), depending on the type and quantity of the purchased feed item. It should be borne in mind that for such insects as crickets and locusts, the containers should be high enough (at least 35-40 cm), since these insects are able to jump high and (or) fly. On the contrary, to preserve zoophobas, flour worms and similar objects, the container may be low (10-15 cm), but have a sufficient bottom area. The expression - "In cramped but not offended" - loses relevance in the content of many feed insects.

Containers for storing insect feed should be equipped with adequate ventilation. As a substrate, laid on the bottom with a layer of 0.5 -3 cm, usually use large wood chips, paper or paper napkins. In addition, egg lattices are placed in one or several layers on top of the substrate that performs a hygienic function, which increase the living volume by several times and act as a good shelter, removing the problems of warlike skirmishes in insects.

2. Temperature is a very important aspect for extending the life of a “future meal”. For such species as cockroaches, crickets, zoophobas, and locusts, temperatures of 27-32 ° C can be considered optimal. At such temperatures, these insects eat well and grow. Actually, with the help of temperatures you can control the pace of life of insects. By lowering temperatures, we will increase the life cycle and decrease the pace of development, increasing the reverse. In some cases, such as flour flour, in order to keep it in the larval stage for as long as possible, it is recommended to keep the larvae at temperatures of 12-15C. At temperatures above 20-25C, the larvae quickly enough pass into the pupal stage and then into the adult-adult beetle, which is not of interest as a food object.

3. "Food, for food" - it is unnecessary to say that living insects, despite their future fate, also need food and water. If you have followed the recommendations of paragraph 2, then ignoring this paragraph is highly discouraged. The thing is that the more varied the insects ate before feeding, the more nutrients your pets will receive. In other words, if you are not used to caring for feed, then those of your pets who later eat insects actually eat “dummies”. Feed the food insects as diverse as possible, which in practice is not difficult. The more varied the food, the more regularly it is fed, the more delicious and nutritious the crickets and cockroaches will be. That is why the forage caught in nature (crickets, grasshoppers, beetles) is the best in terms of nutrition. Feeding insects at temperatures below 20 ° C is fraught with their mass death, so let's recall point 2 again.

It is no less dangerous to overfeed insects, or rather give food much more than required. Опасность кроется в том, что не съеденный корм, достаточно быстро портится и служит сильным источником загрязнения бактериальными и грибковыми инфекциями.

В завершении данного пункта, отдельно хочется сказать о воде для насекомых. Тут, киперы делятся на два лагеря. The former believe that although all living organisms need water, but in the case of many types of feed insects, its lack will be compensated by feeding vegetables and fruits. But the lack of water, as such, will preserve hygiene in a container with insects. This is especially important when keeping species such as crickets. The second ones believe that the presence of a drinking bowl, the guarantor of the "longevity" of insects, and just more often you need to clean up the insectarium.

In our opinion, both strategies are correct, but we adhere to the first.

4. The life expectancy of different types of feed insects varies greatly. The most non-durable crickets. Keeping alive, bought cricket in the adult stage (adult stage of insect life), even if all of the above conditions are provided, it is unlikely to be more than 3-4 weeks, in any other cases significantly less. In contrast to crickets, under properly created conditions, cockroaches live for long months, especially large species, while regularly increasing their numbers.

Some tips for keeping crickets at home:

Crickets must be provided with a sufficiently spacious container with ventilation and a lid. The size of the container directly depends on the number of crickets (for example, a container 450x425x500 would be suitable for 1-2 thousand crickets). If you take a fairly high container (50 cm is enough), then for banana crickets it can even be left open, then they will not jump out and fly away, unlike brownies or two-spotted ones. For other species, it’s worthwhile to take care of the lid-net, the container should be with smooth walls, plastic or glass is well suited for this purpose, since crickets move perfectly along vertical surfaces.

If you use other materials (wood or chipboard), then inside the cage walls you can glue strips of tape or thin glass (5-10cm), or spread a few centimeters of Vaseline on the perimeter from the bottom.

Crickets should have “houses”. For this purpose, egg cartons are suitable. It is better to place them vertically than horizontally, while laying between them simple cardboard-gaskets so that the honeycombs from under the eggs do not stick together. With this arrangement of cardboards, a more optimal ventilation mode is ensured.

Dry food should be poured to the bottom: gammarus, oatmeal, milk powder, infant formula. There are many conflicting opinions about adding crickets to dry food for cats or dogs. Some believe that this is useful for crickets, while others are categorically against the use of such feeds, because they believe that such feeding can be detrimental to the health (or even life) of the pet. We do not use this in practice (as well as various compound feeds), so the choice is yours.

In the top center we put a feeder - plywood or a board on which we put wet food daily: finely grated carrots, apple, lettuce, in the summer you can give burdocks, dandelions, etc. For one thousand crickets a day, two sheets of burdock 40x20cm in size, or 120g, are enough carrots. Do not forget to feed crickets with wet food, "empty" crickets do not carry any nutritional value.

A little secret: carrots in the food chain falling from cricket into eublefar make its color brighter and more saturated due to the carotene vitamin present in carrots. The better crickets eat, the more beautiful and healthy your pet will be.

Crickets do not need a drinker; they consume liquid from wet food. If it is very hot (on the street +30), then you can spray the sides, crickets will drink from droplets without the risk of drowning. If you still want to put a drinker, then put foam rubber or cotton wool in a container of water. Juveniles are more in need of moisture, therefore, a container with a substrate in which crickets hatch must be moistened periodically. Read more about this below in the section on breeding crickets.

If the ambient temperature is 26 ° C or lower, it is recommended to install a luminaire with a spot heating lamp (25-40 W). For this purpose, it is optimal to use a clothespin, which is fixed on the wall of the box. If necessary, crickets go out to warm up at the heating point, where the temperature is 35-45 ° С. It is desirable that the total temperature in the cage does not fall below 26 ° C. The use of additional ultraviolet light contributes to the synthesis of vitamin D3 in crickets, which favorably affects the absorption of calcium by eublefar.

  • Once or twice a week, you need to clean the cage, since it is important that microbes and bacteria do not multiply in it, which can lead to the death of the entire colony (and in some cases, to the death of animals!). If you notice lethargy, abdominal distention in crickets and a sharp unpleasant odor from the cage, be careful, this disease is most likely caused by Nosema grylli microsporidia. If this happens, it is necessary to disinfect the container where the sick crickets were located and check if all the conditions for keeping the crickets were correct. If you do not comply with the conditions of detention, then crickets may appear ticks. This can also adversely affect the population, but if measures are taken in time (lower humidity, add lighting), then such troubles can be avoided.
  • Feeding crickets

    In the wild, cricket feeds on plant pieces, small insects, dead arthropods. Some individuals do not disdain cannibalism and the ruin of the clutches of their relatives. But how to feed crickets at home?

    When kept in captivity, crickets use the following as feed:

    • finely chopped vegetables and fruits,
    • greens, tops, leaves of burdock and dandelion,
    • powder milk, including infant formula,
    • oatmeal and bran
    • food for cats and dogs,
    • boiled chicken egg
    • boiled lean meat.

    A very important component of the diet of crickets is protein. If it is not enough, then the insects will begin to eat each other. Females that eat only plant foods lay eggs, which will soon die. And the lifespan of adults will be much shorter. Therefore, it is necessary to add fishmeal, egg white and gammarus, used to feed aquarium fish.

    Dry feed must be freely available at all times. Wet foods are recommended to be given in portions, 1-2 times a day. This will help avoid rotting and breeding bacteria.

    How to water crickets? Some experts offer to put a drinking bowl, but this is not entirely safe: young individuals drown in them, females lay their eggs, and it is quite simple to turn it over. Another option - spraying one angle from the spray gun - entails a steady increase in humidity, and, as a result, the appearance of mites. Therefore, in order to save yourself from problems, you just need to give enough juicy and moist food, forgetting about drinking bowls and spraying. But we must not forget: a lack of moisture will lead to death or cannibalism.


    Reproduction of crickets occurs when the insects create comfortable conditions and an abundance of food. In a population of 1 male, there must be at least 4 females, otherwise mortal struggles and deafening cracking are guaranteed. A small container (depth 4 cm) is placed in the container, into which moist peat, sand or plain earth is placed. Soon, females will lay their eggs here. To avoid the ruin of masonry by males, this container should be covered with a fine mesh or strainer. Soon larvae will appear, which in a few links will become adults.

    Breeding crickets at home is a fairly simple task. The main thing is to create suitable conditions - temperature, humidity and refreshment, and then give pets the necessary amount of food: dry and wet. Females are quite undemanding to the conditions, so very soon the population will begin to grow rapidly.